The Fabrics: What You Are Actually Buying
A straightforward guide to fibers and fabric construction
The Wandering Weave
You're busy. I get it. So here's the short version: understanding fabric comes down to two things: what fiber it's made from and how that fiber is constructed into fabric. Both matter, and they do different jobs.
Fiber is the raw material the fabric is made of. This determines things like softness, breathability, environmental impact, and what chemicals are used during production.
Construction is how that fiber gets turned into fabric. Basically, how it's knitted or woven. This determines stretch, durability, thickness, and how the finished garment will hold up.
Part One: Fibers
The fiber is the foundation. It's what the fabric is actually made of.
TENCEL™ Modal
TENCEL™ Modal is a fiber made from beech tree cellulose, produced exclusively by Lenzing AG, an Austrian company. It falls into a category called "regenerated cellulose fibers"meaning it starts as plant material (wood) and is chemically processed into fiber.
Why I chose it:
Responsible sourcing: The beech trees are sourced from certified sustainable forests (FSC and PEFC certified). Lenzing has been recognized as one of the best-performing companies globally for responsible wood sourcing practices that protect ancient and endangered forests.
Cleaner production: According to Lenzing, TENCEL™ Modal fibers are produced with at least 50% less carbon emissions and water consumption compared to generic modal fibers. The company has earned platinum status from EcoVadis for three consecutive years for transparency and environmental practices.
Verified biodegradability: TENCEL™ Modal fibers are certified by TÜV AUSTRIA as biodegradable in soil, freshwater, and marine environments, and compostable under home and industrial conditions.
What you'll actually notice: It's soft. Really soft. The kind of soft that makes you want to keep touching it. TENCEL™ Modal also stays soft wash after wash. It doesn't develop that rough, worn-out feeling that some fabrics get over time. It's naturally breathable and manages moisture well.
A Note on "Bamboo" Fabric
You've probably seen "bamboo" fabric marketed as an eco-friendly alternative. It's one of the most common examples of greenwashing in children's clothing. Claims that bamboo fabric is "naturally antibacterial" or "biodegradable" are also false because the chemical processing to make it into fibers for fabric removes any inherent properties of the bamboo plant. Almost all "bamboo" fabric is actually rayon or viscose made from bamboo. Conventional "bamboo" rayon/viscose is made with a process that uses carbon disulfide and sodium hydroxide. These chemicals are hazardous to workers and the environment. Only about 50% of the chemicals are recovered during this process. The remaining 50% of chemicals that aren't recovered end up in air and water. The EPA's regulations on carbon disulfide were strict enough that the last U.S.-based viscose factories shut down over a decade ago.
There are more sustainable versions of "bamboo" fabrics called Lyocell. It uses a closed loop process among other differences. Tags should note if the product is rayon/viscose or Lyocell but many times brands to not disclose this on their marketing and tout "bamboo fabric". The fabric is either rayon/viscose or Lyocell, it is not "bamboo". Bamboo is just used to create the fibers. It is important as a consumer to ask questions and know the difference to protect yourself from being swept up in the greenwashing effect.
Why TENCEL™ Modal is different:
TENCEL™ Modal uses a modified viscose process with significantly higher chemical recovery rates and resource-efficient technology. More importantly, Lenzing is transparent about their process, has third-party verification of their environmental claims, and publishes sustainability reports. When a company can show you the receipts, that's a different situation than vague "eco-friendly" marketing. So while "bamboo" fabrics are soft and silky, it's because it is a rayon made through a chemical process. I prefer to use fibers that are soft and silky AND have verification to their claims of sustainability. Just a personal choice.
GOTS Organic Cotton
Cotton is cotton, right? Not exactly. How it's grown and processed makes an enormous difference, not only for the environment but also for the workers who produce it, and what ends up touching your child's skin.
GOTS stands for Global Organic Textile Standard. It's the world's leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, and it covers the entire supply chain from harvesting the raw cotton through manufacturing and labeling. "Organic" is a word anyone can use. GOTS certification means someone actually checked. It protects farm workers from pesticide exposure, protects factory workers from unsafe conditions, protects the environment from chemical runoff, and protects your child from residual chemicals in the finished product.
Why I chose it:
Organic farming: Cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, or GMOs. The soil must be free of prohibited substances for at least three years before the cotton can be certified organic.
Chemical restrictions: GOTS prohibits many chemicals commonly used in textile processing. This includes certain dyes, heavy metals, formaldehyde, and flame retardants. Dyes and other inputs must meet strict biodegradability and toxicity requirements.
Environmental management: All wet processing facilities must have wastewater treatment systems. Water usage, energy consumption, and waste are monitored and minimized.
Social criteria: Every facility in the supply chain must meet criteria based on International Labour Organization (ILO) standards. This includes, among other things, fair wages, safe working conditions, no child labor, freedom of association.
Third-party verification: Independent auditors inspect and certify every step. It's not self-reported; it's externally verified.
What you'll actually notice: GOTS organic cotton feels like good cotton. It's soft, breathable, and gets softer with washing. It also is more durable and resists wear better than conventional cotton because the fibers are stronger and longer due to the way they are harvested, and treated (think no chemicals to creak it down) throughout the growing, harvesting, and all stages in the supply chain.
Organic Cotton + Spandex
Some pieces needed maximum stretch and recovery so I chose to go with a blend of organic cotton and a small percentage of spandex.
Spandex is a synthetic fiber, I'm not going to pretend it isn't. It's made from polyurethane. I'm transparent about using it because I believe you deserve to know exactly what's in your child's clothes. With 95% organic cotton, the fabric retains cotton's natural benefits—softness, breathability, hypoallergenic properties. The spandex enhances performance without taking over. And since spandex isn't biodegradable, keeping the percentage minimal limits environmental impact while gaining the functional benefits needed.
The honest tradeoff: I'm not a purists to the point of impracticality. A small amount of spandex means clothes that last longer, fit better, and need to be replaced less often. That's its own form of sustainability. I also am working within the limitations of being a small business. I hold core values that I will not compromise on but some areas I have to choose progress over perfection. To that end a few pieces in my collections will have spandex or be organic cotton but not GOTS certified.
Part Two: Fabric Construction
Once you have the fiber, you need to turn it into fabric. How the fiber is knitted (or woven) determines how the finished fabric behaves, its stretch, thickness, durability, and drape. The same fiber can become very different fabrics depending on how it's constructed.
Interlock Knit
Interlock is a double-knit construction where two layers of knit fabric are interlocked together. Think of it as two single-layer fabrics knitted simultaneously and connected.
Why I chose it:
Durability: The double-layer construction makes interlock more durable and less prone to tearing than single-knit fabrics. It can handle the wear and tear that kids put clothes through.
Smooth on both sides: Unlike jersey (which has a different texture on front and back) interlock is identical on both sides. No scratchy "wrong side" against your child's skin.
Doesn't curl: When you cut interlock fabric, the edges stay flat. This means finished garments lie flatter and keep their shape better.
Good stretch with recovery: Interlock has natural stretch that bounces back so clothes move with your kid but don't get stretched out and baggy.
Thicker and more opaque: The double-layer construction provides more coverage and substance than single-knit fabrics.
Rib Knit
Rib knit has a distinctive texture of vertical ridges created by alternating knit and purl stitches. You've likely seen it on the cuffs and waistbands of sweatshirts, but it's also used for entire garments. It is absolutely one of my favorite fabrics.
There are many different types of rib knits and there is no real standard for what "wide rib" or "skinny rib" means. Ribs are measured by the distance between the knit stitches and the purl stitches (2x2, 2x4, etc). I use the terms "wide rib" and "skinny rib" instead of the designation 2x2, etc to make it easier to understand. On my products "wide rib" means broader ridges for more pronounced texture and "skinny rib" means skinnier ridges that are closer together.
Why I chose this:
Inherent stretch: The rib structure itself creates excellent elasticity because the fabric stretches and recovers without needing synthetic elastic fibers. This is stretch built into the knit structure, not added with spandex.
Excellent shape retention: Rib knits hold their shape remarkably well. Waistbands stay snug, cuffs stay fitted, and clothes don't go baggy at the knees after hours of play.
Jersey Knit
Jersey is a single-knit fabric. Think of the classic t-shirt fabric. It's created with one set of needles, producing a fabric with a smooth face and a slightly textured back.
Why I chose this:
Lightweight: Thinner than double-knit fabrics like interlock, making it ideal for warmer weather or layering under other clothes.
Soft drape: Jersey has a fluid quality. It doesn't cling tightly, creating comfortable, relaxed silhouettes.
Good stretch: Jersey naturally stretches, especially across the width. When blended with spandex, it has excellent stretch and recovery.
Weaving It Together
Every fabric involves tradeoffs. There's no perfect material that's simultaneously the softest, most durable, most sustainable, and most affordable. Anyone who tells you otherwise is selling you something. When I design a piece, I'm matching the right fiber to the right construction for what that garment needs to do.
I choose fibers that are genuinely better for the environment and the people who make them when and where I can. I select constructions that make pieces last through actual childhood and not just look good in photos. And when I make compromises (like adding a small amount of spandex), I tell you about it.
That's it. No magic. No perfection. Just honest information and thoughtful choices.
Check Our Sources Yourself
• Lenzing AG official fiber information: tencel.com/fibers
• Canopy Hot Button Report (forest sourcing): canopyplanet.org
• EcoVadis sustainability ratings: ecovadis.com
• FTC Consumer Advice on Bamboo Fabrics: consumer.ftc.gov/bamboo-fabrics
• Global Organic Textile Standard: global-standard.org
Note: TENCEL™ is a registered trademark of Lenzing AG. We are not affiliated with Lenzing AG; we source our TENCEL™ Modal through certified suppliers.